Thursday, March 29, 2012

March


Before leaving for East Africa, I had learned that a former coworker of mine was coming to Ghana to work with Habitat for Humanity. At the end of her volunteering, they would tour Ghana for a few days before heading back to the US. Turns out that coincided exactly with our return from East Africa, so we were able to meet up with her and convinced her to take the grueling trip up to our site, see it for a day, then take an equally grueling trip back! We were glad to show our village to yet another “foreigner”; I’m told she also enjoyed the visit :) Our chief was also glad, and is starting to see our value to the community, because he has started asking our visitors for transportation to “America.” He is convinced that one of these days the visitor will say yes. Unfortunately for him we keep bringing “poor” people to visit :P

The day after our visitor left, Tricia went for training. It was here that she met the new health trainees and started training them for their service.

We had learned in past months that Jumbo #1 would likely get replaced with a health volunteer from this group. The result is that the new volunteer will come to Jumbo at the end of April, while Tricia’s (and my) service continues into August. The priority is with the new volunteer and their integration into the community, so it means Tricia (and I!) had to find something else to do. Tricia looked immediately to the health office in Nkwanta, who were more than happy to let her come and work with them. But what about me? I cannot stay in Jumbo, and if Tricia goes to Nkwanta I would also like to go there. This would mean, however, that I am too far from New Agou school to commute every day, and so I would have to end my work there. But what could I do in Nkwanta? I talked to an education NGO in Nkwanta (Ghana Education Project, search them online) and they were also happy to have me work for them. So fear not, we will have something to do, at least for a month or so, even though we are getting kicked out by the new volunteer! It may get boring toward the end, we’ll see!

This week we hosted the new volunteer (trainee for now) as they came for their “site visit” to see Jumbo and get acquainted with it. After the visit we’re convinced that she will be a great fit for Jumbo and is capable of doing some great things here.

One lingering question you may have is, “What about my school – is it getting another PCV?” The answer to that is no. Throughout my service there were some clear barriers to development in New Agou, including an uncooperative community and non-existent support from the district. Once the district changeover takes place I hope these issues will be resolved. I recently sat down with the chief in New Agou and explained this to him, as well as the headmaster and staff. I think they are disappointed that a new volunteer is not coming, but they understand why. They do have the opportunity to apply again, so if they have a change of heart and start to work together I can easily see another PCV getting placed there. For me this is a lesson in the Peace Corps strategy. The first PCV at a site is merely there to explain what a PCV is, live with the community (“integrate”), and identify barriers to development within the community. I am sure that teachers and the chief will spread this information (we may even have a meeting where I can explain it myself) among the community. If they choose to believe what they hear and act, they can easily change. If they decide to ignore it, no development will come to New Agou. It is sad to think about, especially since I call this place my home (for now), but it has a much greater chance at being effective than riding up in a Land Cruiser and telling people to do X, Y and Z and then leaving. The thought of wasting a “white man’s time” and declining an opportunity for development is a powerful motivator for change.

February


The month of February also went by fast, mainly due to our trip to East Africa! Why East Africa? I heard it once described to me that you come to West Africa for the people; you come to East Africa for the wildlife. While there is plenty of culture in East Africa as well, as we found, there is very little wildlife in West Africa, and how can we say we went to Africa and didn’t see a lion?
So we planned a 17 day trip to Tanzania and Rwanda, including a few days on the sublime island of Zanzibar, 6 days of safari in northern Tanzania, and a few days in Rwanda to see mountain gorillas. The pictures have been posted and they say so much more than words, but suffice it to say that it was a singularly amazing experience.

January


After the beach it was back to site. We arrived in plenty of time for the “Christmas/New Year” combined celebration that Konkombas do in our village. It consists of a very odd selection of Western Christmas traditions, including buying a new set of clothes (only one the kids will get all year), making a lot of rice and giving it away (like Halloween I guess), and multiple nights of very loud hip-hop music. Sound familiar? I thought not. We invited the new nutrition officer in Nkwanta to come and see it, as she had no other plans and was finding it difficult to adapt (she is from Accra). As it turned out, some leaders in the community had additional plans for the holiday. They used the main New Year’s celebration (held on the 2nd for some reason) to announce new bylaws for the village, including no loud music after 10pm, no children and youth out late at night, etc. Not surprisingly, as these new rules were being announced, one of the youth pulled the fuse on the PA. The next moments were chaotic and a bit unnerving (especially for our guest), with arguments between elders and youth. Unfortunately for the leaders, they had not consulted youth about the rules prior to the announcement. Furthermore, most youth in the community do not receive any parenting, but are instead left to find out about the world for themselves. So they formed their own opinions about what is important, and unfortunately they chose loud hip hop, sexual activity, etc. The silver lining in this chain of events was that no loud music was played that night, and we were able to sleep soundly, guest included.

Some days later Tricia and the nutrition officer traveled to the north to visit a nutrition rehabilitation center there as research for the proposed center in Volta region. The difficultly with this travel was that it was over bad roads with very bad public vehicles. Using her powers of persuasion, she convinced the DCE to let her use one of his SUVs for the trip. For a trip that would take four full days of travel roundtrip, plus a day spent there, they were able to leave early on Friday and return around dusk on Saturday.

By the second week in January I was back to teaching and Tricia was back to preparing for training. She went for a one week “training-of-trainers” in the south, leaving me alone at site. Fortunately, when she came back, she brought her friend Tessa, who came from the US to visit. We showed Tessa our village, the market town, my school, anything she was interested in seeing. Her and Tricia then moved on to see other parts of Ghana.

In January we also learned that our village of Jumbo #1 had now been shifted to the district of Nkwanta North. What this means is that now Jumbonians can go to the town of Kpassa (5km) for support from the district, instead of Nkwanta (30km). This change has yet to take effect in the schools and the clinic, but it is a big step in that direction.

January 26th saw the FIRST OFFICIAL BABY WEIGHING at Jumbo clinic, with over a hundred participants.

January also brought a truly sad event. Tricia’s paternal grandfather passed away after struggling with his failing health. Tricia was close with her grandfather, and was looking forward to attending his 95th birthday party next September. To mourn the loss of a loved one is difficult. To mourn that same loss while separated from family and friends thousands of miles is herculean.

December


December 1st marked World AIDS Day. Last year in my school I held discussions on HIV/AIDS instead of normal classes. I had planned to do the same this year, but when I showed up that morning there was a problem. The headmaster had cancelled classes and made a “project” day(during which students doing work either for teachers or for the school) to harvest and shell maize from the school farm. The shelling took the whole day. The next day was a holiday, and then the weekend came, and on Monday we started exams, so there was no chance for me to reschedule the discussions. Frustrating, to say the least. Here these students were, doing manual labor instead of learning about a very important and deadly disease (though with low prevalence in Ghana so far).

When it was time for the new health volunteers (those that arrived June 2011) to hold their in-service training, Tricia was asked to come and help lead some sessions. This was a good way for her to practice her presentation and discussion-leading skills, in preparation for being a trainer for the pre-service training of the next group of health volunteers arriving in February.

Around the same time, the nurse moved into the clinic and officially started receiving patients. Yay!

Before we knew it it was late December, and time for Tricia’s surprise birthday trip. It was held at a guest house along the ocean. Swimming in the ocean and the salt-water lagoon, drinking beer and chatting with other Americans and some Brits, eating wonderful food and lying in a hammock, our faith in humanity and goodness was restored. There was even a birthday cake. With frosting! One evening at 10pm the proprietor came around and mentioned that a leatherback turtle had been spotted on the beach, so I was able to witness the turtle her lay eggs and bury them. (Unfortunately we had to guard the turtle and dig up the eggs and rebury them secretly, as locals will eat both the turtle and the eggs.)

November


The last half of November started out quiet, with me busy teaching and Tricia continuing her seemingly never-ending quest to open a clinic. For Thanksgiving we were again invited to the US Ambassador’s residence in Accra for a traditional meal followed by intense socialization (the kind you engage in after not seeing friends for months).
It has been an idea of Tricia’s for some time now to create a nutrition rehabilitation center in our Volta region of Ghana. When we were in Accra for Thanksgiving she took the opportunity to meet some people that could help make this facility a reality. She met with USAID, the organization that funded her PD Hearth nutrition programs (and recognized her on their blog in Sept 2011), but learned that no funding was available. However, she was directed to a program under the Department of Defense (?!) and was more successful there. Turns out this program, a fund for building schools, community centers, and health facilities (anything non-private that would improve a community), was looking for projects to fund. It was decided that Tricia’s project was a good fit and that she should apply. She was ecstatic; this type of large, expensive, first-of-its-kind infrastructure project is difficult to accomplish.
After a successful trip to Accra, we returned to Jumbo just in time to take part in the official opening ceremony for the clinic! Preparations were made well (in our absence!) and many people came to attend. There were speeches, gift presentations, and even a ribbon-cutting! When they announced the nurse assigned to the clinic, he was hoisted up onto shoulders and carried over next to the chief, where he sat for the remainder of the ceremony. Jumbo has a clinic now!

It's Been Awhile


So…it’s been a while since our last blog post (besides the link to our photos from East Africa). In that amount of time we have been very busy. This problem has only one solution: a shotgun style cluster of blog updates. So put on your flak jacket and helmet and dig your trench deep, because this is going to get ugly.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Pictures from Tanzania and Rwanda!!

 
Links to 3 albums of pictures from our trip to Tanzania (Zanzibar, Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara) and Rwanda (Mountain Gorillas, village in the north, and a visit to a Partners in Health Hospital)!! Enjoy :)
 
(point and shoot photos)
 
(DSLR)
 
I'm off to training the new Health Watsan volunteers, so I've placed the task of updating the blog to Kris :)
 
Lots of Love Always,
 
Tricia